Info About DeWalt 790 Radial Arm Saws {awesome|amazing|Great|Special}

A radial arm saw is an old-fashioned woodworking tool that is still seen today. It is essentially a circular saw that is mounted on top of a horizontal arm, and slides back and forth in action. Mostly, radial saws are used for cross-cutting wood and cutting long pieces of stock to size; but many devices have saws that can pivot 90 degrees, making them a popular choice for splitting wood along the grains as well. They can also be adapted to perform traditional stationary woodworking operations, similarly to table saws, miter saws, drum sanders, disc sanders, shapers, and more.

Furthermore, the heads tilt for cutting bevels, while the pivoting arms rotate to cut miters. There is also an important piece called the yoke, which cradles the saw head (or motor) beneath the arm. Because of their versatility and handiness, they were a favored staple to many home woodworkers.

One of the most popular radial arm saw brands is known as DeWalt, and has been around for quite some time. In its prime, it was a top choice for many home woodworking enthusiasts for several decades. Continue reading to learn some interesting facts about DeWalt 790 Radial Arm Saws and some other common brands they manufactured.

DeWalt 790 Radial Arm Saw

The DeWalt 790 was invented over 98 years ago, back in 1923, by an American inventor, entrepreneur, and founder of DeWalt Tool Co. named Raymond DeWalt, who was from Bridgeton, New Jersey. In his day, DeWalt Tool Co. was one of the leading manufacturers of premium radial arm saws. Unfortunately, the introduction of the power miter saw in the 1970’s led the company to cease manufacturing for the US market in 1985. Although there are still several in operation today, these circular arm saws are mostly replaced by miter saws, which are smaller and more precise. On the other hand, they are not obsolete quite yet, as they are highly useful tools in the wood shop. And miter saws can’t make rip cuts.

The DeWalt Wonder Worker was the original radial arm saw, but many more were introduced in the following years. These include:

The DeWalt 1030

The DeWalt 730 10″

The DeWalt 740 10″ PowerShop

The DeWalt 790 12″ Deluxe

Additional Brands:

Craftsman 10″ with LaserTrac

Drawbacks

These outdated circular arm saws are still sold new today, but they do have some drawbacks according to many woodworkers. Not only are they quite expensive, they take up quite a bit of space compared to smaller miter saws. They are also not easy to transport. These factors can certainly sway a buyer’s decision.



Source by Sarahbeth Kluzinski

Woodworking Hammers {awesome|amazing|Great|Special}

Regardless of the type, virtually all hammers are similar in construction. This simple tool consists of a handle and head, and depending on the type of handle, one or more wedges to keep the head secured. Wood handles typically have three wedges: one wood and two metals. The wood wedge spreads the sides of the tenon to grip the head, and the metal wedges help distribute the pressure evenly.

Metal handles are often forged along with the head and therefore will never loosen. Composite handles (fiberglass or other plastic composition) are usually secured to the head with high-grade epoxy. Although these have much less chance of loosening compared to a wood handle, they can break free from the head under heavy use.

Claw Hammers

When most folks envision a hammer, they think of a claw hammer. And many believe a claw hammer is a claw hammer, right? Not true. There many different kinds of claws hammers available. For the most part, they can be divided into two types: those with curved claws, and those with straight claws. Curved-claw hammers are by far the most common, and they are particularly adept at removing nails. Straight-claw hammers are more common in construction work, where the straighter claws are commonly used to pry parts apart. What a straight-claw hammer gains in demolition work, it loses in nail-pulling efficiency.

But there’s more to claw hammers than the curve of the claw. The weight and handle will also have a huge impact on how well the hammer performs. Weights range from a delicate 7 ounces up to a beefy 28 ounces; the most common is 16 ounces. Heavier hammers are mostly used in construction by experienced framers, who can drive a 16d nail into a 2-by in two or three strokes. A heavy hammer will drive nails faster, but it will also wear you out faster; these industrial-strength tools are best left to professionals.

Even experienced woodworkers tend to hold a hammer with a weak grip. The most common mistake is to choke up on the handle as if it were a baseball bat. And just as with a baseball bat, this will rob the hammer of any power, greatly reducing its ability to drive a nail. Some might say that this affords better control; but without power, the hammer is useless. It’s better to learn to control the hammer with the proper grip.

Handshake grip

To get the maximum mechanical advantage from a hammer, you need to grip the handle near the end. Place the end of the handle in the meaty part of your palm, and wrap your fingers around the handle. Stay away from a white-knuckle grip, as this will only tire your hand. For less power and a bit more control, position the handle just below the palm, and grip. This takes the hammer out of alignment with your arm and shoulder, but you may find it more comfortable.

Warrington Hammers

I have a couple of different sizes of Warrington hammers in my tool chest. These lighter-weight hammers are ideal for driving in finish nails and small brads. Instead of a claw, a Warrington hammer has a small, wedge-shaped cross peen that makes it especially useful for driving in brads. The cross peen is a real finger-saver when working with short, small brads. Why? Because the cross peen will actually fit between my fingers to start the brad. Once it’s started, I flip the hammer to use the flat face to drive in the brad. Another unique feature of this tool is the faces called “side strikes” on the sides of the hammer that let you drive nails in tight spaces.

Warrington hammers are available in four different weights: 31/2, 6, 10, and 12 ounces. I have a 6- and a 10-ounce hammer, and with these I can comfortably handle most tasks. There’s something odd about these hammers: The end of the cross peen is either ground or cast to come to a point instead of being flat. This actually makes it difficult to start a brad, as the point will glance off the head of the brad. Try filing the point flat to make the tool a lot more usable.

Ball-Peen Hammers

Even though most of the work I do is in wood, I often find use for a ball-peen hammer. A ball-peen hammer is handy when I do need to work with metal – a material I often incorporates into jigs and fixtures. I also use a ball-peen hammer – when I work with the metal hardware I install in many projects. A ball-peen hammer (sometimes called an engineer’s hammer) has a standard flat face on one end and some type of peen on the other.

Japanese Hammers

The first time I picked up a Japanese hammer, I knew I had to have one. Its compact head and sturdy handle gave it balance I’d never found in a Western hammer. The types of Japanese hammers you’ll most likely find useful in your shop are the chisel hammers and the plane-adjusting hammers.

Chisel hammers

Chisel hammers may have one of two head styles: barrel or flat. The flat type are more common and are usually made of high-quality tool steel and then tempered to produce a tough, durable head. Since both faces are identical, the balance is near perfect. Some woodworkers prefer the barrel head-style chisel hammer; they feel that this more-compact design centers the weight closer to the handle, so they have greater control.

These stubby heads are usually tempered so they’re soft on the inside and hard on the inside. The theory is that this type of tempering reduces head “bounce.”

Plane-adjusting hammers

Plane-adjusting hammers can be identified by their thin, slender heads and brightly polished finish. Because of the degree of finish, these hammers are intended for use only on planes to adjust the cutters. Granted, you could use a different hammer for this task, but the face will probably be dinged or dented; these marks will transfer to the wood body of the plane – not a good way to treat a valuable tool.



Source by Ted Willson