In the scheme of wood joinery, pocket-hole joints are relatively simple. They’re easy to build and they involve only very basic construction. Essentially, a pocket-hole joint is the screwing together of two butt-joints. Despite their simplicity, though, pocket-hole joints are super strong and they provide a secure joint that’s easy to build and easy to maintain.
Though the use of pocket-hole technology dates back a very long time (to Ancient Egypt, in fact), the process has changed very little. Basically, the pocket-hole technique requires drilling an angled hole into one workpiece and joining it to a second workpiece with a self-tapping screw. The hole is typically drilled at a 15-degree angle through which the screw drills into the face of one workpiece and bites into the edge of the second piece, thus, joining them together. The screw hides within the angled hole (the “pocket” or counterbore) while locking the joint in place.
This unique locking ability requires that a pocket-hole screw have a slightly different design. The pocket-hole screw, then (or a self-tapping screw), will advance when turned while also creating its own thread within the material. The screw is deigned with a panhead, with cutting threads along the body, and with an auger-like point. Owing to this design and their uniquely gripping threads, self-tapping screws deliver a secure, super strong joint.
But, the benefits of pocket-hole joinery aren’t just a tight fit. Because the joint requires only one drilled hole, pocket-holing eliminates the expense (of time, energy etc) of matching mating pieces and no complex math or measurements are required making it a reliable joinery method that’s both fast and nearly fail-safe. Because the technique also doesn’t require access to the inside of the joint (as many other methods do, i.e. biscuit joinery), a pocket-hole joint can be tightened or repaired without disassembling it. To fix a pocket-hole joint, then, you need only drill more pocket-holes, and another self-tapping screw will pull it back together.
The Jig and The Process
Although a jig isn’t absolutely required to create a pocket-hole joint, to build the most efficient joint, you’ll really want a pocket-hole jig. Of course, there are many jigs to choose from and while some will certainly do their job better than others, it’s important to consider what you want from your jig before you invest in one. If you want excellent, precise and consistent results, you’ll also want a high-end jig. If you’re less concerned with perfection, then a lower-cost jig (which almost invariable means lower quality) will probably do the trick.
Cost and performance aside, though, all pocket-hole jigs serve the same general purpose: to guide your drill bit into the material and to ensure your counterbores and pilot holes are consistent in their depth and angle. This moves us along from the jig to the drill bit you’ll use with it. – Using a stepped drill bit (preferably one with square (rather than tapered) “steps”) will allow you to drill the counterbore and a pilot hole simultaneously. Because the tip of a stepped bit has a smaller diameter than the remainder of the bit, you can effectively drill two different holes at once: 1. the counterbore, or the “pocket” that holds and hides the screw, and 2. the pilot hole – a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw for the shank of the screw to drive into.
To ensure your drilling depth is totally consistent, use a stop collar with your drill bit. Set the collar to the depth you wish to drill each hole to eliminate over or under shooting hole-depth. Do not drill entirely through your workpiece. Although you may not see an exit wound, drilling through the piece can cause bulging and splintering which, in turn, can keep your workpieces from coming together flush. While it’s smart to drill holes very near the edge of the piece, do not allow your bit to penetrate through. It’s a good idea, then, to test your set-up before drilling directly into your workpieces.
After the jig and the drill bit, the next component to consider is your screw. Using a self-tapping screw wins only half the battle and achieving the strongest joint means you’ll also need to match the screw thread (either fine or course) to the material into which it will drill. Hardwoods (like cherry, oak and maple) are best complimented by a screw with fine threads. Because high speeds and hardwoods often result in broken screws, finer screw threads will force the screw to drive more slowly and, consequently, more safely as well. Conversely, course threaded screws are best suited for softwoods.
As you prepare to drive the screw, there are a few factors that will work against you. Because the pilot hole must be smaller than the screw you drive and because that hole doesn’t penetrate the mating piece (or even exit the first piece), your workpieces will shift as the screw enters the material. Unless clamped and especially with course threaded screws and as you drive into the mating piece, your workpieces will shift under pressure. Though any separation between the workpieces should correct itself as the screw pulls the joint together, to avoid an offset in the flush-ness of the joint, clamp it in place before you drive the screw.
Because self-tapping screws act like an internal clamp inside the joint, while recommended in small amounts, gluing the joint is not totally necessary. Because the joint “sets” immediately (glue or not), you can remove the clamps as soon as the screw is driven. After the workpieces pull tightly together, the joint is complete.
Pocket-hole joints are strong, simple and fast and although the pocket-hole is typically hidden on the inside of a project, if you’re concerned about the joint being visible, you can simply glue a plug (designed specifically for this purpose) into the pocket-hole. These are usually made of hardwood and can be trimmed, sanded and stained to blend perfectly into the final project. Pocket-hole joints are used commonly for creating angles, beveled corners, cabinet frames, pictures frames, face frames, window jambs, stairs, aprons and etc.
And that’s just about that. Thank you for your time and good luck in all your joinery endeavors!
Source by Malcolm Haslett