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Identifier: shortercourseinw00whee
Title: A shorter course in woodworking; a practical manual for home and school
Year: 1911 (1910s)
Authors: Wheeler, Charles G. (Charles Gardner), 1855-1946
Subjects: Woodwork
Publisher: New York, London, G.P. Putnam’s sons
Contributing Library: The Library of Congress
Digitizing Sponsor: Sloan Foundation

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Fig. 213 82 A Shorter Course in Woodworking and it should be firmly bolted to the floor,venient to have it adjustable in height. • For school use it is con-

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79. Bench-stop.—There is nothing better than the old-fashioned form shown in Fig. 214, which will not damage the work or the tools, and is easily raised or lowered. 80. The Bench-vise. — The work should be clamped in the vise only tightly enough to keep it from slipping. If a piece has to be held with considerable force in one side of the vise only, put a piece of waste wood of the same thickness in the other side (Fig. 163), to prevent straining the vise and to hold the woodFig. 214 with even pressure. There are excellent bench-vises (preferably with jaws of wood), andalso with a quick-action or instantaneous-grip. These are good,but are not necessary, and some think a common wooden vise better forthe beginner. Some also prefer a bench without a tail-vise ^ for the beginner,on the ground that he should learn to keep the work steady without it, buta tail-vise is certainly very useful, and almost essential, in many cases. 81. Horses or Trestles are to lay stock on for marking or sa

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Tagged: , bookid:shortercourseinw00whee , bookyear:1911 , bookdecade:1910 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York__London__G_P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:Sloan_Foundation , bookleafnumber:105 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Identifier: shortercourseinw00whee
Title: A shorter course in woodworking; a practical manual for home and school
Year: 1911 (1910s)
Authors: Wheeler, Charles G. (Charles Gardner), 1855-1946
Subjects: Woodwork
Publisher: New York, London, G.P. Putnam’s sons
Contributing Library: The Library of Congress
Digitizing Sponsor: Sloan Foundation

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About This Book: Catalog Entry
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t. Thus in splittingwood the cutting-edge starts the cut, but soonceases to work, as the wedge-shaped blade splitsthe wood in advance (Fig. 370). The more acutethe cutting-edge the easier it will work, providedit is obtuse enough to give the necessary strengthto the end of the tool. Soft wood is more easilybent aside or compressed than hard wood so thatthe angle can be more acute for the former thanfor the latter. Thus, to always cut to the bestadvantage, the angle of the cutting-edge should,theoretically, be changed with every new operation, but all that can bedone practically is to have a longer bevel for soft wood than for hard. Saw-filing is hard for beginners to do well, and it is soon enoughto undertake it when the pupil has become quite familiar with the use oftools, for it does not need to be done very often and costs but little. Thesaw-filer should know for what work the saw is to be used and whether forhard or for soft wood. It is easy to understand the theory of setting and

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Fig. 370 Common Tools and Their Uses 137 filing saw-teeth, but to do the work well is hard and only a small proportionof good workmen are experts in fixing saws. The teeth are first jointed, or reduced to the same level, by lightlypassing the flat side of a file over their points, lengthways of the saw. Thesaw is firmly fastened in a saw-clamp, so that it will not shake or rattle.At a north window is the best place for the clamp, on account of the light.The teeth are set by bending them outward, one tooth toward one sideand the next toward the other side. Do this with a saw-set. A toothshould not be bent for more than half its length. For a cross-cutting saw the file (a triangular saw-file) is held at an anglewith the blade depending upon the particular form of tooth adopted, aswill be seen by examination. Hold the handle of the file in the right handand the point between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand (Fig. 371).Push the file across with an even, straight stroke, without a

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Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-29 21:25:08

Tagged: , bookid:shortercourseinw00whee , bookyear:1911 , bookdecade:1910 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York__London__G_P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:Sloan_Foundation , bookleafnumber:159 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Identifier: shortercourseinw00whee
Title: A shorter course in woodworking; a practical manual for home and school
Year: 1911 (1910s)
Authors: Wheeler, Charles G. (Charles Gardner), 1855-1946
Subjects: Woodwork
Publisher: New York, London, G.P. Putnam’s sons
Contributing Library: The Library of Congress
Digitizing Sponsor: Sloan Foundation

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inside the frame of achair, sofa, or table. If a tenon be too small, glue onthin pieces to make it larger, trim-ming them afterwards to fit. If thiscan not be done, wrap a little muslin, laid in glue, around the tenon. This can sometimes be done with round pinsor dowels. Splitting and wedging tenons and dowels is often useful in re-pairing (pages 149 and 152). If necessary to use screws where the heads willshow, first make, if possible, with bit or chisel a neat round or square holeof sufficient diameter to admit the head of the screw and deep enough toallow a plug of the same kind of wood to be inserted after the screw hasbeen driven (see page 189). 144. Glue and Its Use.—Glue is made from refuse animal matteror from parts of fish. It comes in sheets or cakes or flakes or ground,to be dissolved and used hot, or in liquid form to be used cold. Hotglue is preferable for nice work if all conditions are as they should be,otherwise, cold glue may be better. In either case, buy the best

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Fig. 510 i82 A Shorter Course in Woodworking grade. Do not use glue that has a mouldy or otherwise disagreeablesmell. The only sure test is to get a little and try it. Glue end-wood underpressure after sizing (see page 184), leave until hard, and see how muchforce is required to break the joint. Soak glue over night, or as long as maybe necessary, in as much water as you think it will absorb. The more itwill swell without dissolving, the better the quality. You cannot tell goodglue by the color, for there are many kinds and many makers; but it shouldbe clear looking. The Glue-pot is made of copper, iron, or tin, and is like the doubleboiler used in kitchens to prevent overheating. It should have acover. Glue-brush.—Brushes are made especially for glue. A good one canbe made of a stick of rattan. Soften the end in hot water and poundit with the hammer until the fibres separate. For corners, cracks, andholes, use sticks, whittled to the required shape. Preparation and Use of Glue.—T

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Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-29 21:47:12

Tagged: , bookid:shortercourseinw00whee , bookyear:1911 , bookdecade:1910 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York__London__G_P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:Sloan_Foundation , bookleafnumber:204 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana