Image from page 374 of “Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs” (1900)

October 22, 2020 by 4g3nd4

Identifier: woodworkingforbe00whee
Title: Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs
Year: 1900 (1900s)
Authors: Wheeler, Charles G. (Charles Gardner), 1855-1946
Subjects: Carpentry Woodwork
Publisher: New York and London, G. P. Putnam’s sons
Contributing Library: The Library of Congress
Digitizing Sponsor: The Library of Congress

View Book Page: Book Viewer
About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book.

Text Appearing Before Image:
eld from slipping by vise, clamp, or other expedient,and then keep the left hand on the chisel, which will steady andguide the tool, and, incidentally, prevent the hand from beingcut. See Parijig and Sha?pening. Circular-plane.—See Plane. Clamps.—Long clamps (cabinet-clamps), shown in the ac-companying illustrations, are extremely useful in making gluedjoints and in various clamping operations. Many, of differentlengths, are to be found in wood-working shops. Although muchwork can be accomplished without them, if you can afford a pairor more of mediumlength, or longer, theywill be very useful.Wooden clamps willanswer every purpose,although steel ones arebetter, but more ex-pensive. To clamp two o rmore flat pieces to-gether, as in making a glue-joint, or inclamping framework,as a door or picture-frame, lay the work across the horses, which should be so placedthat their tops will be as nearly level, or in the same plane, aspossible, and apply the clamps as shown in Fig. 488, always

Text Appearing After Image:
Fig. 488. 360 Wood-Working for Beginners l)utiing pieces of waste wood between the edges of the work andthe clamps. Place the clamps so that either the flat side of the baror the corner, as shown, will lie against the surface of the work,thus keeping it from bending towards the bar when the screw istigluened. The number of clamps to be used must depend onthe size of the work, but there is not usually much danger of anamateurs work being clamped too securely. If you have to glue a flexible strip, put a stiff piece outside be-tween it and the clamp to distribute the pressure. You will often find by sighting across the surface of the workas you tighten the clamps, particularly in the case of door-frames,picture-frames, and the like, that the surface is winding. Whenthis happens, move one or more corners of the work up or down,as the case may be, in the clamps, and thus take out the winding.A little experimenting will show how to do this. In the case offramed work, such as doors or pictur

Note About Images
Please note that these images are extracted from scanned page images that may have been digitally enhanced for readability – coloration and appearance of these illustrations may not perfectly resemble the original work.

Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-30 06:35:16

Tagged: , bookid:woodworkingforbe00whee , bookyear:1900 , bookdecade:1900 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Carpentry , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York_and_London__G__P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:The_Library_of_Congress , bookleafnumber:374 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Image from page 105 of “A shorter course in woodworking; a practical manual for home and school” (1911)

October 21, 2020 by 4g3nd4

Identifier: shortercourseinw00whee
Title: A shorter course in woodworking; a practical manual for home and school
Year: 1911 (1910s)
Authors: Wheeler, Charles G. (Charles Gardner), 1855-1946
Subjects: Woodwork
Publisher: New York, London, G.P. Putnam’s sons
Contributing Library: The Library of Congress
Digitizing Sponsor: Sloan Foundation

View Book Page: Book Viewer
About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book.

Text Appearing Before Image:
Fig. 213 82 A Shorter Course in Woodworking and it should be firmly bolted to the floor,venient to have it adjustable in height. • For school use it is con-

Text Appearing After Image:
79. Bench-stop.—There is nothing better than the old-fashioned form shown in Fig. 214, which will not damage the work or the tools, and is easily raised or lowered. 80. The Bench-vise. — The work should be clamped in the vise only tightly enough to keep it from slipping. If a piece has to be held with considerable force in one side of the vise only, put a piece of waste wood of the same thickness in the other side (Fig. 163), to prevent straining the vise and to hold the woodFig. 214 with even pressure. There are excellent bench-vises (preferably with jaws of wood), andalso with a quick-action or instantaneous-grip. These are good,but are not necessary, and some think a common wooden vise better forthe beginner. Some also prefer a bench without a tail-vise ^ for the beginner,on the ground that he should learn to keep the work steady without it, buta tail-vise is certainly very useful, and almost essential, in many cases. 81. Horses or Trestles are to lay stock on for marking or sa

Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-29 20:46:10

Tagged: , bookid:shortercourseinw00whee , bookyear:1911 , bookdecade:1910 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York__London__G_P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:Sloan_Foundation , bookleafnumber:105 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Image from page 173 of “Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs” (1900)

October 14, 2020 by 4g3nd4

View Book Page: Book Viewer
About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book.

Text Appearing Before Image:
Fig. 243, 14 wide. Board thickness is sufficient for a short seat, but iflong a i:^ plank should be used. If you have in mind to makea very long sled you should consider, before beginning, that youmust either use a quite thick plank to get the necessary stiffness,which will add to the weight of the double-runner, or the plankmust be stiffened or trussed with rods beneath like a bridge,which will add to the expense and labour. It should be ofstrong, elastic, straight-grained wood, free from bad knots ordefects, as the strain upon it is great. It should not be tooyielding and springy, however, or it may sag inconveniently.Clear hard Southern pine or ash is good, A plank of stiff spruceof good quality will do. The rear end can be rounded, as shown(Fig. 243). 158 Wood-Working for Beginners

Text Appearing After Image:
Machine-planing is sufficient for the sides of the seat-plank, but the edges should be planed carefully (see Phuie)^ and the angles slightly rounded off with the plane, spokeshave, or rasp and file (see Spokeshave^ Rasp^ and File) to prevent splinters. To enable the front sled to turn properly, get out two pieces of 2 plank, as shown in Fig. 244,about 3 wide and as long as thewidth of the sled, one being taperedtoward the ends on the under side.The tapering is important, as it di-minishes the friction when the frontsled is turned. Screw one of thesepieces firmly across the top of thefront sled and the other across the lower side of the seat-board(see Scre7vs)^ a hole being bored through the centre of eachcross-piece (as well as through the seat-board and the top of thefront sled) for the king-bolt upon which the front sled turns.Find these centres accurately and bore carefully with a bit yVlarger than the king-bolt (see Boring). The front sled should turn very freelyand easily, andhav

Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-30 06:19:57

Tagged: , bookid:woodworkingforbe00whee , bookyear:1900 , bookdecade:1900 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Carpentry , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York_and_London__G__P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:The_Library_of_Congress , bookleafnumber:173 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Image from page 519 of “Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs” (1900)

October 11, 2020 by 4g3nd4

View Book Page: Book Viewer
About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book.

Text Appearing Before Image:
Fig. 690.

Text Appearing After Image:
Fig. 691. Withdrawing Nails.—When withdrawing nails place a blockunder the hammer-head as shown (Fig. 692), using more blocks,if necessary, as the nail is withdrawn. To draw the nails from boxes, pry up a board, together withthe nails, a short distance—perhaps ^—and then with a sharpsquick blow of the hammer pound the board back into place, notstriking the nails but the board between them. This will usuallyleave the nail-heads projecting a little above the surface, sothat you can draw them as shown in Fig. 692, and thus savesplitting or defacing the boards and bending the nails, as usuallyresults from smashing or wrenching boxes apart. The quickblow drives the board back before the motion has time to com-municate itself to the nails, on somewhat the same principle that Tools and Operations 505 a bullet makes a round hole in a window pane without smashingthe glass.

Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-30 06:45:11

Tagged: , bookid:woodworkingforbe00whee , bookyear:1900 , bookdecade:1900 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Carpentry , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York_and_London__G__P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:The_Library_of_Congress , bookleafnumber:519 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Image from page 487 of “Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs” (1900)

October 1, 2020 by 4g3nd4

View Book Page: Book Viewer
About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book.

Text Appearing Before Image:
lest it catch and the saw buckle. The saw should cut moston the downward motion, not on the up stroke. With a sharp saw, there is nothing gained by bearing downheavily on the teeth, which may spring the saw and make crookedwork. Rather let the saw run of itself with an easy, /I^^/i^ stroke,guiding it carefully, and not letting it press on the wood on theup stroke. The more hastily and furiously you saw the poorerthe result will probably be.When you degin to runoff the line, as you will bepretty sure to do, twist thesaw a little with the wristas you go on, which willbring it back to the line,because of the kerf beingwider than the thickness ofthe saw-blade. Beginners are apt tobend the saw over to oneside. You can tell w^hether it is cutting at right angles with the face of the board by testingwith the try-square as shown in Fig. 660. Such a test as this is,however, too inconvenient for ordinary i)ractical work and youshould learn as quickly as you can to hold the saw-blade correctly.

Text Appearing After Image:
Fig. 660. Tools and Operations 473 At the end of the cut, as at the beginning, saw gently withquick, light strokes, and hold the piece which is being cut offwith the left hand, lest it break off and splinter one of the two pieces. If the saw binds or does not work easily, you can for yourrougher work put a little tallow, butter, lard, or lubricating oil onthe biade, but beware of doing this for your nice work, or it willdeface it when done. If the binding is caused by the springingtogether of the wood (Fig. 695) the crack should be wedged open. Do not get into the habit of sawing a little way outside of theline and then trimming off the superfluous wood with your knifeor a chisel. That is not a good way to learn to saw by a line.Try your best to make the cut where it should be (even if you domake mistakes for a good while) and thus get into the habit ofdoing it right without having to rely on any other tool than the saw. Many pieces of wood can better be screwed in the vise for saw-in

Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-30 06:43:27

Tagged: , bookid:woodworkingforbe00whee , bookyear:1900 , bookdecade:1900 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Carpentry , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York_and_London__G__P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:The_Library_of_Congress , bookleafnumber:487 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Image from page 159 of “A shorter course in woodworking; a practical manual for home and school” (1911)

October 1, 2020 by 4g3nd4

View Book Page: Book Viewer
About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book.

Text Appearing Before Image:
t. Thus in splittingwood the cutting-edge starts the cut, but soonceases to work, as the wedge-shaped blade splitsthe wood in advance (Fig. 370). The more acutethe cutting-edge the easier it will work, providedit is obtuse enough to give the necessary strengthto the end of the tool. Soft wood is more easilybent aside or compressed than hard wood so thatthe angle can be more acute for the former thanfor the latter. Thus, to always cut to the bestadvantage, the angle of the cutting-edge should,theoretically, be changed with every new operation, but all that can bedone practically is to have a longer bevel for soft wood than for hard. Saw-filing is hard for beginners to do well, and it is soon enoughto undertake it when the pupil has become quite familiar with the use oftools, for it does not need to be done very often and costs but little. Thesaw-filer should know for what work the saw is to be used and whether forhard or for soft wood. It is easy to understand the theory of setting and

Text Appearing After Image:
Fig. 370 Common Tools and Their Uses 137 filing saw-teeth, but to do the work well is hard and only a small proportionof good workmen are experts in fixing saws. The teeth are first jointed, or reduced to the same level, by lightlypassing the flat side of a file over their points, lengthways of the saw. Thesaw is firmly fastened in a saw-clamp, so that it will not shake or rattle.At a north window is the best place for the clamp, on account of the light.The teeth are set by bending them outward, one tooth toward one sideand the next toward the other side. Do this with a saw-set. A toothshould not be bent for more than half its length. For a cross-cutting saw the file (a triangular saw-file) is held at an anglewith the blade depending upon the particular form of tooth adopted, aswill be seen by examination. Hold the handle of the file in the right handand the point between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand (Fig. 371).Push the file across with an even, straight stroke, without a

Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-29 21:25:08

Tagged: , bookid:shortercourseinw00whee , bookyear:1911 , bookdecade:1910 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York__London__G_P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:Sloan_Foundation , bookleafnumber:159 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Image from page 109 of “Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs” (1900)

September 24, 2020 by 4g3nd4

View Book Page: Book Viewer
About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book.

Text Appearing Before Image:
Fig. 124. do your work well. This board must have a rabbet or groovecut out of the upper piece, as shown, to give room for shavings.In Fig. 123 the top board overlaps the ends of the cleats a trifle,which (with the spaces between the cleats) allows the escape ofthe shavings. Arrange some way to hold the board firmly onthe bench. Care is necessary in using the shooting-board not toplane slices from your left hand. Guides, to attach to the planeto ensure square edges, can be bought and used instead of theshooting-board. Some of them are serviceable, particularly those adjustable at variousangles. A ?niire shooting-board (Fig. 125) is alsouseful. It requires tobe made with evenmore care than theboard just given, buton the same principle.The angular stop orstops must be fittedto make the angles ex-actly 45°. A sawed mitre holds glue better than a planed mitre,but sawed mitres often require trimming with the plane to geta perfect fit.

Text Appearing After Image:
Fig. 125. The Workshop 95 Form for Rounding Sticks.—You will be continuallywanting to make sticks eight-sidedor round. A form to hold the piecesfor planing is a great convenience. Before beginning work read carefullyMa?king, Gauge, Plane, and Nailing,in Part V., and look up any other ref-erences. Take two strips and plane off (oreven chisel or whittle) one corner ofeach, first gauging lines equidistantfrom the corner for a guide. Then nailthe two strips together, with the bevelsfacing each other, to make a trough as Fig. 126. shown in Fig. 126. Put a screw in one end to push the workagainst, push the form against the bench-stop or screw

Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-30 06:15:00

Tagged: , bookid:woodworkingforbe00whee , bookyear:1900 , bookdecade:1900 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Carpentry , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York_and_London__G__P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:The_Library_of_Congress , bookleafnumber:109 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Image from page 136 of “Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs” (1900)

September 21, 2020 by 4g3nd4

View Book Page: Book Viewer
About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book.

Text Appearing Before Image:
imneys were made of blocks paintedred. The doors were made of pieces of board and hingedwith leather. Bay-windows and the like were made ofblocks of the required shape nailed to the boxes. Thewindows and blinds were represented by painting. Some ofthe roofs were shingled with pieces of shingles. A sugges-tion for a light-house is shown in Fig. 171. Considerable care in the use of the tools is called for tomake these buildings neatly. Much of the effect depends, ft ^ ^Jfl ^^^^^^^^^^S^^^^K^^—■ C^^^^^JI^J In ■H Fig. 171. A Few Toys 121 also, upon the care with which the painting is done (seePainting), and the taste used in the selection of the colours.Brighter colours are suitable for a little village of this sortthan would be in good taste for real houses. White withgreen blinds is good, of course; or yellow can be used. Theroofs should be painted. Red roofs are very effective. Before beginning work, read carefully Marking, Rule,Square, Saw, Plane, Nailing, Withdrawing Nails, etc.

Text Appearing After Image:
Fig. 172. Dolls* House.—The house shown in Fig. 172 is quiteeasily made, and a shallow affair like this has the advantage 122 Wood-Working for Beginners of being more conxenient than a deep one about arrangingthe contents. Before beginning work read carefully Markings Rule, Square,Sa7c>, Planc^ and look up any other references. Pine and whitewood are suitable, or any wood can be used thatis not hard to work. It can be made of any desired size. Three or four feet wideand a little higher in the middle will probably be suitable forordinary cases, and twelve or fifteen inches will be a good depth(from front to back). The construction is plain. The roof and sides are to be cutfrom dressed stock of uniform width, and from to -J in thick-ness. Carefully true one edge, if it is not already true, and get out thebottom board, then the upright sides, and then the roof. Thebevels at the highest point of the roof and where the roof joinsthe sides you must mark with the bevel (taking the sla

Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-30 06:16:53

Tagged: , bookid:woodworkingforbe00whee , bookyear:1900 , bookdecade:1900 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Carpentry , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York_and_London__G__P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:The_Library_of_Congress , bookleafnumber:136 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Image from page 241 of “Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs” (1900)

September 15, 2020 by 4g3nd4

View Book Page: Book Viewer
About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book.

Text Appearing Before Image:
the outside of a box should bedone after it is permanently put together, allowing plentyof time, if glue is used in the joints, for it to dry beforedressing off the surfaces. The inside must, of course, besmoothed before putting together. The variety of forms in which boxes are made is too greatfor all to be specified, but the same general principles apply to nearly all forms ofbox-work. In the caseof chests or large boxes,you will often see themw^ith the sides and endspanelled, but this israther an elaborate form■ ^^ for the beginner to at- tempt and had best be avoided by the inexperiencedworker. A form which is not too hard for the amateur isshown, however, in Fig. 350, the sides and ends being fittedto grooves or rabbets cut in posts at each corner. The work of getting out the stock for boxes and makingthe joints can be done so quickly and accurately (and usuallycheaply) by a circular saw or other machine that much timeis saved, when making nice boxes, by having the parts sawed

Text Appearing After Image:
A Few Miscellaneous Operations 227 at a mill. The remarks made at the end of the introductionto Chapter X. (on Furniture), in regard to getting out yourwork, putting together, smoothing, and finishing, applyequally to making the better class of boxes and chests, andthe general details of the work do not differ from those ofthe articles shown in that chapter. See, also. Marking, Rule,Square, Saw, Plane, Nailing, Nail-set, Screws, Hinges, Locks,Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V. Toy Boats.—A few suggestions about the woodwork ofthe hulls of toy boats may be useful to the beginner. Thedetails of rigging and discussion of the merits of the varioustypes and designs are matters which do not come within thescope of this book, and you can easily find information uponthese points. • Making your boats yourself is half the fun, of course,and capital practice with tools as well as a valuable intro-duction to the building of model yachts, which you mayundertake later, and to the gen

Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-30 06:26:01

Tagged: , bookid:woodworkingforbe00whee , bookyear:1900 , bookdecade:1900 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Carpentry , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York_and_London__G__P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:The_Library_of_Congress , bookleafnumber:241 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Image from page 111 of “Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs” (1900)

September 12, 2020 by 4g3nd4

View Book Page: Book Viewer
About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book.

Text Appearing Before Image:
96 Wood-Working for Beginners For making pieces tapering, as well as eight-sided or rounding,you have only to modify this idea by planing off the corners in atapering way (Fig. 129). See Roundhig Sticks. Level and Plumb.—Before beginning work read carefullyMarking^ Rule^ Square^ Gat/ge, Sa7C, and Pla)ie^ in Part V. To make a plumb like Fig. 130, take a piece of straight woodCn. from 3 to 5 wide and 4 or 5 long with the edges straight^^^ and parallel. Gauge a line down the middle of the side,exactly parallel to the edges, and cut the notch shown atthe bottom. Make a saw-kerf at the upper end of theline and another beside it in which to catch the end of ^^

Text Appearing After Image:
Fig. 130. the line, or fasten the line around a nail. (See Plumb?) To make the level shown in Fig. 131, it is essential that thebottom board c dh^ straight on the lower edge. The two bracesa c and a d should be of the same length. The strut a bshould be nailed across at the middle of c ^and at right anglesto it. The essential thing is to have the line a b exactly at rightangles to c d, the object of the braces a c and a d being tostiffen the board c d, and to keep the lines a b and c d atright angles to each other. The plumb-line is hung and used asin the case just given, the board c d being used for horizontalwork. (See Level?) Cabinets, etc., for Tools and Supplies.—A tool-chest,though a very convenient (and in fact necessary) thing for a The Workshop 97 workman who is moving around from place to place or whoneeds a safe receptacle in which to lock his tools in a fac-tory, is not at all necessary in a private shop, nor half asconvenient as to have the tools where they can be morer

Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-30 06:15:13

Tagged: , bookid:woodworkingforbe00whee , bookyear:1900 , bookdecade:1900 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Carpentry , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York_and_London__G__P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:The_Library_of_Congress , bookleafnumber:111 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Image from page 84 of “Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs” (1900)

September 9, 2020 by 4g3nd4

View Book Page: Book Viewer
About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book.

Text Appearing Before Image:
h are to support theend of a long board (Fig. 50). If you cannot afford to buy a vise, or have to work where thereis none, there are a number of makeshifts with which you canget along cpiite well, though not as rapidly or conveniently. bar being mortised into it and sliding through a mortise cut in the leg, as shownin Figs. 56 and 57. If you wish to make this kind, study Afortising, in Partv., and lay out and cut the mortise in the leg before nailing the cross-board toit (Figs. 41 and 42). This is the most difficult part of the bench to makenicely, and you can sjiend a good deal of pains upon it. If you have not yetthe proper tools to make this mortise you can mark it out and have it cut for avery small sum at a wood-working mill or shop. Vhen nailing the cross-boardupon the legs, bear in mind to put this leg in the right place. Fig. 58 showsa simjile arrangement with an additional post, or two posts can be put togetherand one half the notching done in each (Fig. 59). The Workshop 69

Text Appearing After Image:
Fig, 60. Carpenters often nail a piece on the side of the bench (Fig. 60),which holds boards for planing fairly well, for common work, buttends to bruise the ends of the boards a little against the cleat,and requires a knife,or something, drivenin at the other end ofthe boards to holdthem with any degreeof security. Anothercheap substitute isshown in Fig. 61.This holds boards of regular sizes quite well. Thin pieces canbe held tighter by wedging, as shown. Another sim-ple contrivance,and more of avise, is easilymade by boringa couple ofholesin aboard,say 6 wide and12 long, and screwing it loosely to the side of the bench (Fig. 62), makingthe holes in the board larger than the diameter of the screws so that it will be free ;p— _ to play. By insert- ~=^^=-^ ing the piece to be

Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-30 06:11:38

Tagged: , bookid:woodworkingforbe00whee , bookyear:1900 , bookdecade:1900 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Carpentry , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York_and_London__G__P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:The_Library_of_Congress , bookleafnumber:84 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Image from page 247 of “Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs” (1900)

September 6, 2020 by 4g3nd4

View Book Page: Book Viewer
About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book.

Text Appearing Before Image:
t sec-tions shown on the body plan. Cut out each of these patterns soas to save the part which is the reverse of the shape of the sectionof the boat, thus forming a series of templates, which you canapply to the hull at each section to test your cutting, until thetemplates just fit the wood at their respective sections, when theshape of the hull will, of course, agree with the plan. The spokeshave, and sometimes the plane, can be used to goodadvantage in the final shaping (see Spokeshave), Especial care is 2^2 Wood-Working for Beginners required not to slice off too much, and you will, of course, work,as a rule, from the centre (or amidships) towards the ends. Theblock can be held in the lap or between the knees for this shap-ing, but it is ])etter for all kinds of crooked work to have thematerial firmly held by a vise or some other contrivance, so thatnot merely the hands of the worker are free, but the whole bodyas well. This form of hull is simple to make, in that the curves of the

Text Appearing After Image:
Fig. 356. outside are all convex. There are no concave surfaces and re-versed curves. The surface can be finally shaped by the use ofthe rasp, followed by a file, and finally smoothed with scraperor glass (see Scrapet-). Do not use sandpaper until the hull isfinished. The inside must next be hollowed. Gauge a line around theupper side, ^ from the edge, except at the bow and stern, wherea greater distance should be allowed (Fig. 356). The hull mustnow be held firmly in some way. If you cannot contrive to clampit firmly without bruising the outside, you should arrange someblocks (padding them with cloth or leather) in such a way that itcan be held securely. It is better to spend an hour in fasteningthe block firmly than to attempt to steady it with one hand andto cut with the other. In all the shaping of the boat, both handsshould be free if possible. Grasp the blade of the tool with theleft hand, or lay the hand across it, so as to exert a back-pressureon the tool. This gives great con

Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-30 06:26:15

Tagged: , bookid:woodworkingforbe00whee , bookyear:1900 , bookdecade:1900 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Carpentry , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York_and_London__G__P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:The_Library_of_Congress , bookleafnumber:247 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana