bookcentury:1900

Identifier: woodworkingforbe00whee
Title: Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs
Year: 1900 (1900s)
Authors: Wheeler, Charles G. (Charles Gardner), 1855-1946
Subjects: Carpentry Woodwork
Publisher: New York and London, G. P. Putnam’s sons
Contributing Library: The Library of Congress
Digitizing Sponsor: The Library of Congress

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eld from slipping by vise, clamp, or other expedient,and then keep the left hand on the chisel, which will steady andguide the tool, and, incidentally, prevent the hand from beingcut. See Parijig and Sha?pening. Circular-plane.—See Plane. Clamps.—Long clamps (cabinet-clamps), shown in the ac-companying illustrations, are extremely useful in making gluedjoints and in various clamping operations. Many, of differentlengths, are to be found in wood-working shops. Although muchwork can be accomplished without them, if you can afford a pairor more of mediumlength, or longer, theywill be very useful.Wooden clamps willanswer every purpose,although steel ones arebetter, but more ex-pensive. To clamp two o rmore flat pieces to-gether, as in making a glue-joint, or inclamping framework,as a door or picture-frame, lay the work across the horses, which should be so placedthat their tops will be as nearly level, or in the same plane, aspossible, and apply the clamps as shown in Fig. 488, always

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Fig. 488. 360 Wood-Working for Beginners l)utiing pieces of waste wood between the edges of the work andthe clamps. Place the clamps so that either the flat side of the baror the corner, as shown, will lie against the surface of the work,thus keeping it from bending towards the bar when the screw istigluened. The number of clamps to be used must depend onthe size of the work, but there is not usually much danger of anamateurs work being clamped too securely. If you have to glue a flexible strip, put a stiff piece outside be-tween it and the clamp to distribute the pressure. You will often find by sighting across the surface of the workas you tighten the clamps, particularly in the case of door-frames,picture-frames, and the like, that the surface is winding. Whenthis happens, move one or more corners of the work up or down,as the case may be, in the clamps, and thus take out the winding.A little experimenting will show how to do this. In the case offramed work, such as doors or pictur

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Tagged: , bookid:woodworkingforbe00whee , bookyear:1900 , bookdecade:1900 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Carpentry , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York_and_London__G__P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:The_Library_of_Congress , bookleafnumber:374 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana

Identifier: woodworkingforbe00whee
Title: Woodworking for beginners; a manual for amateurs
Year: 1900 (1900s)
Authors: Wheeler, Charles G. (Charles Gardner), 1855-1946
Subjects: Carpentry Woodwork
Publisher: New York and London, G. P. Putnam’s sons
Contributing Library: The Library of Congress
Digitizing Sponsor: The Library of Congress

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About This Book: Catalog Entry
View All Images: All Images From Book

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Fig. 243, 14 wide. Board thickness is sufficient for a short seat, but iflong a i:^ plank should be used. If you have in mind to makea very long sled you should consider, before beginning, that youmust either use a quite thick plank to get the necessary stiffness,which will add to the weight of the double-runner, or the plankmust be stiffened or trussed with rods beneath like a bridge,which will add to the expense and labour. It should be ofstrong, elastic, straight-grained wood, free from bad knots ordefects, as the strain upon it is great. It should not be tooyielding and springy, however, or it may sag inconveniently.Clear hard Southern pine or ash is good, A plank of stiff spruceof good quality will do. The rear end can be rounded, as shown(Fig. 243). 158 Wood-Working for Beginners

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Machine-planing is sufficient for the sides of the seat-plank, but the edges should be planed carefully (see Phuie)^ and the angles slightly rounded off with the plane, spokeshave, or rasp and file (see Spokeshave^ Rasp^ and File) to prevent splinters. To enable the front sled to turn properly, get out two pieces of 2 plank, as shown in Fig. 244,about 3 wide and as long as thewidth of the sled, one being taperedtoward the ends on the under side.The tapering is important, as it di-minishes the friction when the frontsled is turned. Screw one of thesepieces firmly across the top of thefront sled and the other across the lower side of the seat-board(see Scre7vs)^ a hole being bored through the centre of eachcross-piece (as well as through the seat-board and the top of thefront sled) for the king-bolt upon which the front sled turns.Find these centres accurately and bore carefully with a bit yVlarger than the king-bolt (see Boring). The front sled should turn very freelyand easily, andhav

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Posted by Internet Archive Book Images on 2014-07-30 06:19:57

Tagged: , bookid:woodworkingforbe00whee , bookyear:1900 , bookdecade:1900 , bookcentury:1900 , bookauthor:Wheeler__Charles_G___Charles_Gardner___1855_1946 , booksubject:Carpentry , booksubject:Woodwork , bookpublisher:New_York_and_London__G__P__Putnam_s_sons , bookcontributor:The_Library_of_Congress , booksponsor:The_Library_of_Congress , bookleafnumber:173 , bookcollection:library_of_congress , bookcollection:americana